A bird in the hand....
The canary islands are a cluster of
islands off the coast of Africa.
The name "canary" actually derives from the latin word
for dog, "canus" on account of the first settlers finding
many such animals on the island. I didn't see any dogs, but there
were cats. tons of the buggers, sprawled out in the sun. I guess
the saying on this island is "it's a cat's life".

My parent's don't often go on holiday, so when they do they
usually aim for somewhere better than your average roach motel
in a holiday resort. And this time they had chosen well - the
Barcelo hotel in Caletta del Fuste. The hotel was huge, utterly
modern and drenched in marble and swimming pools. The rooms were
huge as were the beds. The buffet restaurant contained a staggering
cornucopia of food like something out of Caligula and the staff
were friendly and highly-skilled. The weather had been some what
schizophrenic on arrival and so the thought of spending an entire
week inside the complex should it rain did not displease me. Fortunately,
the weather behaved itself throughout the week and i thought no
more about it.
Dry county
The first thing i noticed about Fuerteventura is that it's dry.
Really dry. For the most part the land is arid volcanic soil. Which
means that the island can be covered in sand dunes that suddenly
burst into flora at a single raindrop. Some people like leafy, oasis-style
resorts but i'm more fond of dry places so this was all good.

For the most part, i spent the holiday either lolled out on the
sun bed away from everyone and everything, but i did to get to
check out some really neat wildlife. I went on a camel ride at
a nearby park. I love camels, and this was something i had always
wanted to do. However, i became somewhat uncertain as soon as
i was strapped into a seat and the camel stood up. I noticed some
kind of black, tarry liquid oozing out the back of the camel's
neck. I thought that maybe the straps were digging into the poor
beast but it turns out that i was sitting on the only teenage
camel in the entire group, and the black stuff was fluid from
a glad he expels when in heat. It was just my luck to be strapped
onto a horny camel, desperate to get laid by the female dromedary
in front. We rode along the very edge of a bloody tall mountain,
something i think was done on purpose by the burly Moroccans.
One of them smacked my camel in the face when it refused a blade
of grass, and this infuriated me but i was simply too paralysed
by the breathtaking-but-fucking-high-up view of desert at the
immediate side of me.

Another excursion saw me take a boat ride out into
the sea to a place where dolphins and whales often congregated.
Sadly, they weren't there on the day we went out, but there was
a big sea turtle, and lots of fish. The boat ride was a great
way to unwind. I lay on the tarpaulin for most of the trip and
listened the sea beneath me, and the wind above.
Fish Fish Fish Fish Fish
We were also treated to a tour of the marine hospital which contained
a bizarre variety of strange sealife including the formidable Moray
Eel, Ray fish, Trigger fish (which has a mouth so powerful that
they can bite through fingerbone like it was butter) and an octopus.
There was also a sea lion show which boasted the only open-water
Sea Lion in the world that hung around daily just to impress the
tourists. And get fish. Interestingly enough, the maintenance mechanic
that worked round the boats was from my hometown in Hampshire. Bang
went my plan to spend the holidays in pleasant isolation around
the locals.

The island was teaming with wildlife. When i wasn't
sunbathing, i would wonder along the expanse of rocks by the sea
looking at rockpools. One day i was watching a race between a
group of hermit crabs (something you can't understand unless you're
actually there) when i suddenly noticed some kind of critter
jumping between the rocks with the grace of a soviet ballerina.
A thought occurs
I fished out some peanuts out of my pockets, and it came running
towards me. It was a chipmunk, God's plan-B for squirrels, and it
jumped onto my hand, took the nut and decided to bury it in front
of me. Just like that. I though it was then going to charge me for
performing such a spectacle, but instead the chipmunk decided to
split. I shook my head and went back to looking at the fish sunbathing
in my rockpool.

My parents were content in just chilling out in
the shade, reading their books and soaking in the warmth, but
even so we all agreed that we should do a little exploring. Every
night we would wander through the local sprawl of beautiful villas,
but they were crammed with ex-pats, and all the local joints were
places like "Keith's English Pub" and "Tommy O'Leary's
Genuine Oirish Bar". We had had enough of seeing placed with
menus boasting "full English" and bars with Sky Sports
being played at full volume. It was time to mingle with the natives.

Originally, i had wanted to see the old capital,
Betancuria, but there was only a single bus to and from the place
which finished at midday and there were no taxi firms in the town.
So we decided to go to newer capital of Puerto Del Rosario. I'm
glad we went - it was a magnificent little town - a mixture of
seaside cheer and beautifully maintained urban buildings. It was
utterly Spanish and yet very distinct. We stopped at a bar to
grab a soft drink and the bar maid was like every bar maid you
get in Spain - surly looking but with a heart of gold. We wondered
around, admiring the prosperous little shops and architecture,
and then headed back to the hotel feeling utterly satisfied.

One of the things i have always thought a person
would do if they decided to live in a foreign country is to learn
the language. Sadly, most of the British working in Fuerteventura
was completely ignorant of the Spanish tongue. I wondered if it
occurred to them that foreigners spoke English out of convenience
rather than because wanted to.
Pathetic waste of life
My mum had stopped in at this restaurant near the hotel to ask for
directions. She did so in Spanish, under the assumption that the
waitress would understand. "Sorry, no speako Spanish"
was the reply the girl gave us. My mum asked her how long she'd
be living in Fuerteventura for. "Eight years" was the
reply, and we left horrified. Even our rep, the illustrious
Becky from Nottingham seemed somewhat evasive about her knowledge of the
local language, though she was quick to tell us on many occasion
that this was her "fifth season" at island. I would have
got annoyed at her, but she seemed genuinely intent on making sure
we had a good time. And she had nice teeth.

I was sad to see the end of my holiday in the Canary
Islands. I hadn't realised how much i'd missed wildlife in general.
I walk through the heart of central London most days without batting
an eyelid, passing events and shops that impress my out-of-town
friends but fail to stir much in me. Yet during my stay in Fuerteventura,
i would spend half an hour mesmerised by even the most tiny things
such as hornets tearing at plants, beetles scuttling across the
hot tarmac or just watching the sea anemones drift in rhythm with
the sea current between the rocks. I'm glad i went, and would
recommend this amazing island to anyone who's interested in a
warm holiday all year round.